Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
